UES Extra Heavy Flannel Shirt Wine

Due to its 15.5oz fabric, the UES extra-heavy flannel shirt is one of the thickest and most amazing flannel shirts in the world. Using the dobby loom, UES irregularly changed the length and location of the warp and weft to create an expression that differs from the usual twill. This creates the almost pear-skin-like texture on the surface of the material and is therefore called crepe weave material or Amundsen weave. The 15.5oz fabric has been woven using an old weaving machine named Schoenherr. This machine does not excessively pull the thread and so produces the soft texture.

Louis Ferdinand Schönherr (1817-1911), together with his brother Wilhelm, is regarded as the inventor of the mechanical cloth-weaving loom in Saxony and thus founded the Saxon cloth and woollen goods industry. This machine does not pull the yarn excessively and produces a soft texture. Brushing is given on the inner side, enhancing the soft touch and warmth. It is a product that requires high technology for sewing because it is incredibly thick. With the study of balance for the threading of the warp and weft, the fabric moves moderately, and although it is thick, it is completed with a pleasant-fitting feel.

The balance between the warp and weft thread is good, and the moderate movement of the fabric improves comfort. The entire shirt is full of superior-quality details and uses an outstanding, highly skilled sewing process. The main body seams have been rolled and triple-chain-stitched, thus producing a strong garment that can be cherished for a long time. A piping process was used to obtain a sturdy rolled hem.
The buttons are made from ivory palm nut with a beautiful gradient tone. Ivory palms are medium-sized-to-tall palms reaching up to a height of 20 m, with pinnate leaves. The “nut” is covered with pericarp, which is removed by animals. They help counter both the destruction of the rain forest and the elephants. For many years the buttons on uniforms worn by U.S. soldiers came from ivory palm nuts. Like so many natural dyes and textile fibres, vegetable ivory has been replaced with less expensive synthetics.

The cut is a modern slim fit.

By using the direct dyeing of coloured threads, the colours will fade moderately, and you can enjoy the soft ageing from continuous wearing and washing.

UES flannel shirts are a reinterpretation of the casual American style, and while made from a heavyweight fabric that you can feel from one touch, the slightly raised inner fabric feels soft like it’s wrapping up your body when worn. The colours of the directly dyed yarn naturally fade, so you can sense the ageing, just like with denim. From spinning, dyeing to knitted fabric, in cutting and sewing, all of this is made in Japan.

UES is a small Japanese label founded by Chuji Matsumoto in 1994. UES comes from the English word “Waste”, which means that Matsumoto-San wants you to make full use of each garment for as long as possible before discarding it. It is a small judgement of the concept of disposable wear that is so commonplace today in the world of fashion and from which Matsumoto-San disassociates himself completely.

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